Casamance | Paris Lumière

Paris Lumière is an embroidery on a natural linen and cotton ground, and the trick of it is in the stitch direction. The viscose thread is laid in several directions within each fragment of the design, so each area catches the light differently and the whole reads as a set of shifting tones, almost a trompe-l'oeil, although the thread colour barely changes. The ground cloth is slightly irregular, which keeps it from feeling too precise. It is an abstract, faceted pattern that changes as you walk past it.

The base is 60 per cent linen and 40 per cent cotton, embroidered in viscose and polyester, made in India at 129 centimetres wide and 465 grams per square metre. The repeat is short, 19 centimetres vertically and 43 centimetres horizontally, with a straight match. There are 5 colourways: Mordoré, Céladon, Nacre, Jaune Beurre and Acajou. Mordoré and Nacre carry the sheen the collection is named for; Céladon and Jaune Beurre are softer, and Acajou is the deep one for a dark room.

We would use it in modest quantities where it can be seen at close range: the front of a headboard, a bench cushion at the end of a bed, a pair of curtains in a dressing room, or an occasional chair in a hall. It is a fabric to set against plains; the Dolce Vita cotton velvet or a linen from the same house gives it room to breathe. Sold by the half metre; order a sample to see it in your own light.

For making up, the short repeat makes it economical to match, but do match it, because the faceted design shows any drift at the seams. Embroidered linens are not for hard-wearing seats; keep them to backs, headboards and cushions, and ask your upholsterer to add a knit backing if it is going over a tight curve. Curtains want a full lining and a soft interlining so the embroidery lies flat.

• Composition: 60% linen, 40% cotton, with viscose and polyester embroidery
• Width: 129 cm (51 in)
• Pattern repeat: 19 cm vertical, 43 cm horizontal
• Weight: 465 g per square metre
• Match: Straight match
• Care: Dry clean recommended
• Origin: Made in India
• Collection: Paris Lumière, Casamance
• Colourways: 5 (Mordoré, Céladon, Nacre, Jaune Beurre, Acajou)