Nina Campbell | Khotan

Khotan builds its ground from vertical stripes of linen stitched together, and over that pieced backdrop lays an embroidered design of jewel-shaped ikat motifs. The construction is the charm, the seamed stripes give the cloth the character of an assembled textile rather than a printed imitation, and the embroidered ikats sit on it like set stones.

It is worked in India on a cloth of 61 per cent linen and 39 per cent viscose, 137 centimetres wide.

A pieced and embroidered fabric asks for gentle service, so it favours curtains, blinds, cushions and headboards, with upholstery kept to occasional pieces where the stitching will be respected rather than tested daily.