Fleumartin enlarges a detail from a Kalemkar in the house archives into a pattern of big overlapping scales, then does something more interesting with it: the design is woven as a damask on a silk warp with cotton and linen in the weft, built on principles borrowed from brocatelle. That construction gives it a subtle relief, so the scales are felt as well as seen, along with an elegant hand and a fine, restrained sheen.
